How to Spend 4 Days in Copenhagen in Winter: A Magical, Food-Filled Itinerary
Nyhavn aglow with festive lights.
If you're looking for a cozy, festive, and walkable European city vacation, Copenhagen in November delivers. After our 3-day stopover in Iceland, we flew into Denmark’s capital for four days of castles, Christmas markets, hygge, and surprisingly excellent food.
This 4-day Copenhagen itinerary is perfect for couples or childfree travelers who want a balance of sightseeing, downtime, and delicious bites—without packing every hour. If crisp winter air, charming streets, and cozy bakeries filled with the scent of delicious pastries sound like your kind of getaway, this itinerary’s for you.
Day 1: Arrival & Tivoli Christmas Market (A Perfect Winter Welcome to Copenhagen)
We landed in Copenhagen around 11:45am and made our way into the city via a quick and easy train to Central Station. Lunch was our first stop—open-faced smørrebrød at Tivoli Food Hall—then we wandered near City Hall Square and killed time until check-in. After dropping our bags and regrouping (because travel days are rough), we headed to Tivoli Gardens to kick off our trip with Christmas lights, gløgg, and a seriously good raclette sandwich.
Highlights:
Tivoli Food Hall: Located right next to the iconic Tivoli Gardens, this modern indoor market is part of Copenhagen’s long tradition of balancing sleek design with cozy community spaces. We grabbed lunch here and started with classic smørrebrød—open-faced Danish sandwiches layered with butter and a variety of fresh toppings on rye bread. The atmosphere felt lively but not chaotic, and it was a perfect, low-effort intro to the local food scene.
Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square): This bustling square is the heart of central Copenhagen and has long been a hub for civic events. We stopped by to peek into the historic City Hall, which dates back to 1905 and was inspired by medieval Danish architecture. They happened to be setting up for a wedding in the main atrium, and it was stunning—grand and romantic with a huge skylight above and a hint of Scandinavian holiday decor.
Tivoli Gardens: Opened in 1843, Tivoli is one of the world’s oldest amusement parks and still one of the most charming. Between the twinkling lights, nostalgic rides, cozy gløgg stands, and festive market stalls, it completely lived up to the hype. We rode a few rides, warmed up with mulled wine, and shared a raclette sandwich that honestly might have ruined all future sandwiches for us. It was that good.
Day 2: Palaces, Pastries & Cozy Scandinavian Dining
We started the day with one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve had in Europe—think Danish pastries from the bakery next door, local meats and cheeses, and wellness shots. After thoroughly (and happily) stuffing ourselves, we walked through some of Copenhagen’s most photogenic spots, soaking up tons of history and local charm followed by an intimate dinner at Höst.
Highlights:
Nyhavn: This 17th-century harbor is easily one of Copenhagen’s most iconic sights, with its colorful townhouses, docked wooden boats, and postcard-perfect canal views. We went first thing in the morning, which meant no crowds. We almost caught a canal boat tour—but missed it and didn’t feel like waiting for the next one. Still, a great spot to walk through.
Farumhus Bakery: Tucked just around the corner from Nyhavn, we stumbled into this little bakery and boy, were we happy we did. Farumhus has been around since 1947 and is known for sticking to traditional baking methods—no shortcuts, just flaky, buttery perfection. We grabbed a scone and a rumkugler (traditional Danish rum ball) and honestly, we’re still thinking about it.
Frederik’s Church (The Marble Church): Known for its massive green copper dome—one of the largest in Scandinavia—this church was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and took nearly 150 years to complete. Inside, it’s beautifully serene. We sat quietly in the pews and just took it all in: the arches, the light, the silence.
Amalienborg Palace: The official residence of the Danish royal family. We arrived around 11:15am for the changing of the guard at noon. Heads up: there’s quite a bit of lead-up (like, almost an hour of gradual setup and positioning), but it was cool to see the precision and tradition behind it all.
Christiansborg Palace Ruins: Beneath the current palace lies a fascinating layer of Copenhagen’s past, including ruins from two earlier castles destroyed by fire. You can walk through excavated foundations and remnants dating back to the 12th century. While it dragged a little in places (there was more emphasis on witchcraft than we were interested in), the ruins were cool to see and are worth a visit if you’re into royal history.
Christmas Markets: Copenhagen in November means Christmas markets on every corner—each with its own vibe but all filled with twinkly lights, cozy treats, and the smell of cinnamon and mulled wine in the air. We popped into several during our trip and loved grazing our way through them—Belgian waffles, æbleskiver (pancake balls), gløgg (mulled wine), and more. There were also lots of vendors selling handmade goods and we picked up some beautiful glass Christmas ornaments.
Höst: If you're looking for that quintessential New Nordic dining experience—Höst delivers. Tucked away in central Copenhagen, this award-winning spot serves a multi-course tasting menu that somehow manages to feel upscale and cozy. We booked an early dinner and loved the warm lighting, rustic-modern decor, and creative dishes (including a few surprise courses between courses). It's a splurge, but one that feels totally worth it if you appreciate excellent food and a vibe that’s equal parts stylish and intimate.
Day 3: Castles, Gardens & Food Hall Favorites
After another excellent hotel breakfast (seriously, we never got tired of it), we layered up and headed out—even though the weather wasn’t exactly on our side. It was cold, gray, and drizzly for most of the day, but we pushed on and made the most of it. First up was Rosenborg Castle and the surrounding King’s Garden, which was peaceful and photogenic despite the winter gloom. For lunch, we warmed up at Torvehallerne Food Hall, then spent the rest of the afternoon visiting Christiansborg Palace (again) and Christiansborg Tower.
Highlights:
Rosenborg Castle: Built in the early 1600s by King Christian IV, this fairy-tale castle is now home to Denmark’s crown jewels and royal regalia. It’s compact, beautifully preserved, and full of ornate details without feeling overwhelming. One of the rooms was under construction while we were there and it was cool to get a glimpse into the restoration process.
Kongens Have (King’s Garden): The oldest royal garden in Denmark, and still one of the loveliest spots in the city—even in the off-season. Quiet paths, sculptures, and locals out for a walk made it a nice break from the busier sights.
Torvehallerne Food Hall: A buzzing indoor market with everything from fresh produce to global street food and Danish sweets. My husband went for freshly friend empanadas, I had a warming red lentil curry, and we split a flødeboller (a fluffy chocolate-covered marshmallow treat). All were amazing, unsurprisingly.
Christiansborg Palace (Round 2): We returned to explore more of the palace, this time visiting the royal reception rooms and museum. It’s impressive how much is packed into this one complex—you could easily spend a few days here. Our favorite part was the treasury which contained the crown jewels and regalia, they were dazzling!
Christiansborg Tower: We stumbled upon this hidden gem when we almost (accidentally) walked into a Danish legislative session in progress. The security guard very politely told us that we couldn’t go inside but that we should check out this tower which was around the corner. We took an elevator to the for panoramic views over Copenhagen. It’s free and relatively uncrowded, with a great perspective of the city’s rooftops and spires.
Day 4: Day Trip to Malmö, Sweden
After yet another excellent hotel breakfast, we took a scenic 40-minute train ride across the Øresund Bridge to Malmö, Sweden. It’s an easy, affordable day trip from Copenhagen, with a laid-back vibe, cozy cafés, and its own dose of holiday magic. If you want to know more about how to plan this day trip, check out my Malmö day trip guide.
Highlights:
Malmö Castle & Park: A quiet, eerie spot with centuries of history. Originally built in the 1500s, the castle has served as everything from a royal residence to a prison. The surrounding park adds a peaceful contrast and makes for a nice walk, even in winter. We definitely felt the creepy vibes!
Malmö Christmas Market: Smaller and more relaxed than Copenhagen’s Christmas markets, but still full of charm. We grabbed incredible Swedish hot dogs from Belo’s with all the toppings and ended up chatting with the owner—he uses his grandfather’s pickle recipe! We also tried Swedish glögg, which came topped with a layer of dairy-free cream and was just as warming and delicious as the Danish version.
Lilla Kafferosteriet – The perfect stop for a proper Swedish fika (a coffee break, but better). This café felt cozy and local, and our gingerbread cake and arraksboller (a Swedish rum ball) hit the spot on a chilly afternoon.
City Center – Malmö’s compact downtown is easy to explore on foot. We picked up some handmade souvenirs, ducked into side streets, and appreciated the historic Swedish architecture. No big plans—just a relaxed few hours soaking up Malmö’s beauty.
Final Thoughts: Is Copenhagen Worth Visiting in Winter?
Copenhagen in November is cold and gray, yes—but it’s also cozy, festive, and full of quiet charm. Between the Christmas markets, royal palaces, world-class food halls, and that effortlessly cool Scandinavian design, it’s a great winter city to explore without feeling overwhelmed. We spent four days here after a 3-day Iceland stopover, and it was just the right amount of time to experience the city at a relaxed pace.
If you’re traveling childfree and looking for a destination that’s clean, calm, and built for wandering—Copenhagen delivers. It’s walkable, beautifully lit in winter, and full of spots to duck in for a hot drink or fresh pastry when the weather turns drizzly (which it often does). You won’t need a packed itinerary to enjoy it—just an appetite and a warm jacket.
Planning your own winter trip to Copenhagen? Let me know in the comments what you're most excited for—or if you’ve been, what spots I should check out next time! And if you found this itinerary helpful, consider bookmarking it or sharing it with a travel buddy.